Jamaica: Dickie’s Restaurant Perched by the Sea Offers Birdwatchers Distractions

Birders love to be distracted during meals if the distractions come on wings. In Port Antonio on Jamaica’s quiet northeast coast, one of our worldwide traveling Naturalist Journey’s tour groups spied the perfect place for a lunch with such distractions.

Literally perched above the sea, Dickie’s Best Kept Secret has Laughing Gulls and Royal Terns flying eye-level out the window. Perched is a good adjective; this is authentic Jamaican and NOT a property born of a mortgage. Dickie pieced it together as funds allowed, and his Rastafarian-Victorian creation has great charm.  You can’t miss it as you drive west along the coast from Port Antonio, decorated a cheery blue and yellow; three stories clinging to the oceanside of the hill. Its cozy interior nooks outline the various building episodes of his life, and if you can get Dickie to pause in the kitchen (he is owner and chef), he’ll tell you about them.

While you wait for dinner you can draw (several members of the family, young and old, create art), chat, and savor the smells of seafood caught that day in a recipe combined with finesse. Dickie learned to craft good meals while at work for Ritz-Carlton, Trident and Port Antonio’s Frenchman’s Cove. He had success in that world but he’s happiest here, at home surrounded by his favorite drawings and fresh air from the sea. We liked it too, relaxed, surrounded by walls the colors of tanagers – turquoise and jade green that descend to meet a bright red floor.

While the place is relaxed in a welcoming Rasta manner, reservations are required as you order your meal choice in advance. Dickie needs time to catch your fish, and to get to the market for everything fresh, from local goat to savory herbs (876-809-6276). We loved the place, and found it a perfect, totally absorbing dining experience, with surprising (superlative) service, irreplaceable ambiance and delicious food.

Best of all, satisfied with lunch, we walked down the stairs to a dock, where Dickie’s son Dennis picked us up to tour the bay on his boat.  How perfect to watch acrobatic Magnificent Frigatebirds and Brown Pelicans soar overhead as we digested lunch!

Ackee Fruit, one of Jamaica's cooking essentials...

As we write, we are distressed to hear that Jamaican authorities may decide to widen the highway, pushing Dickie’s from its tranquil perch. We hope NOT but for travelers considering seeing the quiet side of Jamaica – go soon!

The Epicurean Birder is produced by the world-traveling guides of Naturalist Journeys, LLC. Dickie’s is one of five Jamaican restaurants endorsed in their “Five Places to Get Fat While Birding” series, piloted in January, 2012. Sample great food on Naturalist Journey’s Jamaica tour March 31-April 6, 2012.

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,

Leave a comment